THE HIS & HERS PARTY WERE ENJOYING THE CITY IN MAGICAL EARLY EVENING LIGHT. WE WERE INTRIGUED AND EXCITED TO BE INVITED TO ENJOY A CONTEMPORARY RESTAURANT EXPERIENCE.
Words: Jean Hill
People were relaxing, sipping cocktails, on the café terrace, watching the world walk by, below. The interior is light and spacious. The décor incorporates rich textures and dense colours with the emphasis on comfort.
It is a whole food approach, using locally sourced and seasonal produce. The aim is to be an ethical and healthy cuisine.
Small gestures mean a lot. We were warmly greeted. The menu came with a sprig of rosemary and a waft of that evocative scent surrounded the table. Soda bread and beer butter was served with a flourish, and a smile. It was delicious and whetted our appetites.
Two chose rabbit and confit port pie with water-crust pastry. All delicious with a rich shredded, embedded flavour. I opted for goat’s curd with charred tender-stem pickles. A lovely combination of flavours, subtle and sharp.
It had to be Seabass, caramelised cauliflower, and sea herbs for my main. The cauliflower purée was perfect pitch, smooth accompaniment to the intensity of the fish. I ordered a side of warm potato salad. The gentle heat enhances the piquant cheese flavour and the cauliflower retains crunch. My companions opted for corn fed chicken breast, and charred corn. The chicken is dry cured with salt and sugar. This creates that authentic old-fashioned flavour, with a modern twist. One of the party, who is vegetable shy, declared that the charred corn was the star on the plate. The cheese board was out of the ordinary. Cornish blue vied with Ash goats milk cheese for pride of place. All meltingly delicious.
This is a relatively small menu, that still manages to cater to vegetarians and vegans alongside meat eaters. We had an intimate, really enjoyable time with great food.
Thursday and Friday: 5pm – 8pm: 3 courses £20 per person.
For related features, please pay a visit to our Food & Drink page