Not everyone is ready or able to travel to Paris just yet. And if not, Paris can come to you. Six by Nico is a restaurant with a stellar reputation. Fine cuisine with a tasting menu, with optional matching wines, chosen to accentuate the flavours of the food. This is a matching made in the heavenly skies. The Six in the name refers to the fact that the menu changes every six weeks.
Review by Jean Hill
We dress accordingly: a little Parisian style on a cold dismal day, though the rain lifted as we approached the restaurant. A very welcome blast of heat enveloped us and we banished the cares of the day, and settled into our surroundings. It is a distinguished interior. Tiles and burnished wood flooring, warm tones and high ceilings all create the impression of space and a leisurely time to fill that space.
The kitchen is partially on view and it was fascinating to watch the young chefs at work, diligently assembling culinary art on a plate. The tasting menu, inspired by Paris, promises six courses. There is a theme in here somewhere.
The ‘snack’ was intended simply as a lead-in dish and it very nearly stole the show. Pomme frites came with sourdough bread with whipped pork fat butter. I was expecting French fries. What arrived on the plate were larger rectangular shapes of potato, but still deep-fried, with Parmesan and truffle. I cannot do justice to the taste; more of a vibrant potato distillation than any roast potato normally delivers. There was depth; there was a sense of flavour that you get when you dig up a potato patch and cook within the hour. The Parmesan is inspired and the sourdough crunchy and satisfying. I told my companion that it would be impossible to better this dish and it would be hard to match. Perhaps I underestimated the talents of the chefs at Six for Nico.
French onion soup arrived as caramelised onion with Comté foam and toasted sourdough. Comté cheese comes from eastern France (and is delicious). Beef tartare arrived with cured egg yolk and cornishon (pickled gherkin cucumber). The accompanying wine: Château St Pierre, Cuvée Tradition Rose was exquisite. It had depth: it had bouquet, its flavour lingered and matched the beef perfectly. The chestnut velôute was refreshing; a lovely combination of celeriac, Tommé Angolotti, apple and lovage. Tommé is a cheese produced in the French Alps and Agnolotti is a pasta akin to ravioli. I love fish. The hake was flaky, pure simple clean flavour with coco beans, saffron rouille (a luxurious addition) and Bouillibaisse sauce.
The breast of duck was pink and pretty much melted in the mouth. The crispy parsley root was different in a really good way; with preserved quince, blackberry and truffle and puy lentil fricassee. A treat for the senses. The red Bordeaux was a perfect match, rich with a lingering sense of well-being. The final course was baked Savarin: orchard pear, vanilla ganache and champagne with Moscato Passito, Araldica wine from Piemonte. The vanilla ganache was sparkling and the pears were soft, and rich with flavour.
Diners can book a table now for ‘PARIS’. Open from midday, Monday through to Sunday on North John Street in Liverpool, each six-course menu will be available from noon to night. The menu is priced at £32 per person with the option to enjoy an expertly selected wine and specialist drinks pairing for an additional £26. As ever, there is a vegetarian alternative available for every course, as well as Parisian theme inspired snack sides.
Nico added: “With our latest themed menu we aim to take our guests on a gastronomic whirlwind through Paris’s finest markets and street cafés and embrace both its French roots and international influences.”
To make a reservation and to book now, visit www.sixbynico.co.uk
‘PARIS’ continues until Sunday 12th December 2021 at Six by Nico Liverpool.
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